Newsletter May 2018

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Langkawi and Koh Lipe, Satun and Co.

Our adventure knows a big rebound. Three crew members join us, one goes and we have to leave Langkawi where we had to careen the boat.

At anchor in beautiful Langkawi Bay, between jungle mountains and white sand beaches, we share our neighborhood with our Argentinian friends and a multitude of sailboats. The place is known for being calm, quiet, full of good plans and advice because many experienced old wolves have been used as a permanent residence. We often ride scooters to discover this setting of contrasting nature, mixing waterfalls and bitumen, wild landscapes and tall buildings.

Here comes Freddo, a multi-faceted musician, sometimes clown, juggler, cuisto. He brings us French gifts: sausage, honey, cheese but he also brings with him a torrent of rain. We jump on the opportunity for everyone to wash on deck smile on the lips. Without an annex, and with a shower at the marina more than 1 km away we do not miss this kind of opportunity. We get acquainted with a tasting of red wines in addition to food, some games later we are in the water, disguised, happy to swim in the phosphorescent plankton that would almost dazzle us so much its light is intense. Several days pass and we begin our main mission: the search for a dinghy (annex) and some parts / equipment to renovate the boat. We enjoy a large barbecue on the beach of a small desert island located right in front of the bay, inform our neighborhood of our research, find opportunities and eat grilled fish playing our guitars, ukulele, cajon and other instruments. Great synergy, we fell well, Langkawi is apparently the perfect place to find what we are looking for. The second teammate joins us finally!

Joy, a great clown, a devil’s baton player, a life artist, a longtime friend of Iris. Always without annex, the Argentineans lend us nicely a boat named Louis and a canoe. Unfortunately it is Rémi’s turn to leave for France but we organize a gargantuan meal with the neighbors. It is expected that he will return in 2 months. The next day, we go on a water, diesel and refueling mission with our two new boats. It will take us no less than 5 hours to bring the water back to the boat. Lise and Clem in the canoe pulling Luis, Iris and 8 cans of 25L each. Joy and Fred take on an equally important mission. Go get bamboos several meters long on another small island, canoe, which will then serve as a structure for us to shade the boat. Our life is punctuated by these types of missions, small pleasures such as a shower in the rain, sharing fabulous meals (often vegetarian and homemade), life stories from all over the world, always lulled by laughter and the musical notes of a guitar  in the background. We decide to organize a sail to the port of Kuah with Maria and Maggie, the crew of Star Seeker to visit an abandoned sailboat. About 4 / 5h of journey, we go out all the sails, the hearts on the rise, everyone knows his role but we also learn a lot of experience of Maria. We sleep at anchor tonight in the  serenity, card games, cocktails and good mood, our team is welded and happy. The next day back to the Telaga Creek, 6 / 7h of navigation this time. A lot of engine because the wind is not at the rendezvous, but the burning sun makes us forget the thunderous engine purring. When we return, we are invited to the chocolate ceremony on the small island where we do the barbecues. Argentineans make their own cocoa paste in the sailboat from Java beans, they offer to all the inhabitants of the bay to meet to present their products and offer a large pot of hot chocolate. We meet Bella, a Brazilian who has lived in France and speaks our language perfectly. She is looking to travel by boat to learn because she has the project, with her companion Otto (Finnish, photographer and draftsman), to buy a sailboat in the future. Iris offers to share a piece of road with us and the next day they embark aboard Aeuletheria.

A major event will take us from Langkawi. The boat is too heavy and too big to be careening in the marinas of the island. We must find a fallback solution. Terry, a shipwright tells us about a place in Thailand, 25 miles from where we could take the sailboat for a price around Langkawi. Satun, deep south Thailand, in a river and mangrove arm. We decide to leave Malaysia. But before, we have to sail and relax in the islands, Koh Lipe turns out to be the ideal destination before leaving to work on the site. Just before leaving Telaga, we finally buy an annex, a zodiac for 6 people of good quality. We go on a refueling mission before departure with the dinghy, what happiness, everything is easier and faster, relief to be able to make small crossings without rowing. Departure for Thailand!

20 miles separate us from Koh Lipe, this dreamlike turquoise archipelago. The navigation is going well, the team understand each other without talking to each other for the maneuvers, everyone knows his role, the gestures become automatisms, everything is fluid, we take out the genoa and the SGS as often as we can. We arrive at the anchorage on the sunset side, between the island of Koh Adang and Koh Lipe by night. We anchor with the fear of damaging the corals. Everybody goes on Earth with the annex to visit the island. On return, the happiness was short-lived. The transom of the dinghy loose, the engine is too powerful, we take the water, we scoop and row to the boat. The next day, repair of the dinghy under a blazing sun, it is very hot in Koh Lipe and the island is up to its reputation, it is breathtakingly beautiful! Clem snorkels at 10m to check that the anchor does not damage the seabed, we are on the sand all is well. We walk on the island, air of well deserved vacation, it is very touristy here and quite expensive. Back in the evening, the dinghy is repaired but the anchorage seems unstable because of the strong wind blowing between the two islands 20 knots. We spend the night on the alert. The next morning, we discover with horror that our annex, nicknamed “Storm” flew away. We are looking for ways to find him. Everyone leaves on the island in long tail (Thai traditional water taxi) in search of Storm. Clem and Iris stay on Aeuletheria to search for the dinghy by sea, we sail between the islands all day with the binoculars on the nose every minute, retrouver. Rien n’y fit. We will have had an appendix for 4 days. We will stay 1 week on Koh Lipe.

Elodie joins us in turn, childhood friend of Iris, arriving straight from Australia. We find an old canoe abandoned on the beach, we try to return with the boat but unfortunately the 3 rd round trip, we sink halfway. Decidedly, luck is not with us.

Departure for Satun the same evening, everyone takes their quarters, the ship is refueling, Clem and Fred cook and make bread to hold the quarters, we are happy to go on Navigation. Thirty miles separate us from the shipyard. We arrive the next day around noon in an arm of river surrounded by mangroves and hills, with muddy water beaten by small fishing boats. Our site contact is Mickael, a Fijian based in Chebilang (small village south of Satun) for about ten years, he is the link between customers and the office. He gets on board to help us dock “Pithak Shipyard and Services”, our new home for the fairing. We are really welcome. The tanker will be able to start! We are renting a small house on the other side of the road and we are starting to clear the boat, clean it and list the spots and equipment we will need!